Hiking in Cinque Terre

I bought my plane ticket home.  I won't confirm or deny whether a little 20 lb piglet is the driving force behind that decision or not, but I did find this photo on one of my memory cards recently and it made me pretty sad.  She's having the time of her life with her new puppy buddy that she's staying with though so I'm guessing that the agenda looks something like this: fly home, find a place to live, get Brooklyn a puppy buddy.  

I get to see this smushy face in a mere 6 weeks.  Hopefully.  My path home is from one country with a little independence referendum up for vote next week and goes through another country with an active volcano.  

According to my tickets, I have just three weeks left in Italy before I head over to England and Scotland for a few weeks.  Three teeny, tiny weeks.   It really doesn't even seem real.   Knowing that my time here has a foreseeable end means I need to kick it into gear on the weekends.  Last weekend, it was back to Cinque Terre for a bit of hiking. 

I think a majority of people take the Riomaggiore to Monterosso route (south to north) but I started in Monterosso because Monterosso to Vernazza is supposed to be the hardest section of the hike.   I admire those that have those late bursts of energy when hiking.  If I came to a bazillion steps at the end of a long hot day on the trails, I'm not going to lie, I'd park it right there at the trailhead.  

Monterosso is relatively flat in comparison to her sisters and seemed more of a Riviera beach town type place.  Who wouldn't want to just spend the day on this beach instead of hiking right?

But alas, I followed the sign towards Vernazza.  The trail from Monterosso to Vernazza is indeed a bit of a physical adventure.  There were times when I'd look up and see stairs without any visible ending.  Imagine this site going on forever and ever and ever.  And ever. 

Once you summited though, it was a pretty easy hike from there.  The trail continued with inclines and declines but none as strenuous as that first effort up.  The trail was a little narrow in places and without railings so if you don't like windy mountain roads, you probably wouldn't like this section of the hike. 

But oh the view.  While this was the hardest section of the direct 5 city trail, it was also the most stunning in my opinion.  Direct, overhead sunlight and haze made for poor photography conditions for me, but this is a view you'll want to see for yourself anyway if you haven't already. 

Monterossa's beach left far behind.

Vernazza coming up. 

 I did say in a previous post that I'd reserve judgement on favorites until I'd visited all of the cities.  Manarola wins it for me.  

Aside from being obviously gorgeous, this city was more peaceful than her sisters (except Corniglia because she's on a cliff and fewer people are up for climbing up to visit).  The town had fewer restaurants and shops, but it had perfectly awesome caffe, gelato and focaccia.  What more do you need really?

What I especially liked about Manarola was this trail up high--you can walk around the city near the vineyards and see her from all different sides. 

Manarola also had the most perfect swimming spot.  If you take the paved trail along the water, you end up at a swimming hole where the water is pure turquoise and locals are sunning themselves on rocks.  Throw your suit in the bottom of your backpack because when you come upon places like these after hiking along a really hot trail, you'll want nothing more than to jump in.  

And if you are in Manarola, this is exactly how you should jump in.  Seriously, so sad I did not have my suit.

When all is said and done, hiking Cinque Terre is beautiful and definitely worth the effort, but there is also an easier way to see that cities that is pretty beautiful as well.  Buy an all-city boat pass in any of the towns except Corniglia and let the cool sea air blow through your hair.   It is a little crowded but the views can't be beat. 

Vernazza

At what point does this stop becoming a blog and just become a vacation "home movie" that you make people watch? Since I have very little access to a kitchen, there's not a lot of food to post.  I have to admit to really missing baking and cooking though.  The other day I was craving super buttery banana bread.  Mmmm....banana bread.  

Vernazza is the second to last city if you are heading from the south/east.  I've heard many say that this is their favorite of the 5 cities.  I can see why it's well loved but I'll have to reserve judgement until I visit them all. 

In true Cinque Terre style, Vernazza is filled with colorful fishing boats and homes and was especially filled with Italians sunbathing along the water.

This child is brave but he seemed to enjoy it.  The water had a lot to say that day. 

Just another superstar who lives on a cliff above the water.  

Those of you who've been to Cinque Terre know that it is all about the stairs.  How residents are able to climb these daily with groceries escapes me, but of course if there's a view to be had from above, I'm climbing. 

The view from the castle.

I think I watched this guy (see him?) for a good 20 minutes because:

1. There was a killer cool breeze right at this exact corner perch of the castle and 

2. I was fascinated by his ability to swim in what looked like a washing machine from up high.  He bobbed and ducked under the white waves and came close to the rocks a million times and somehow never rode a wave into them. 

While it's always busy, the filling of the streets comes in waves...curiously timed exactly to when each train arrives, then it calms down a bit until the next train. 

What can I say about Vernazza that a million others haven't already said?  Seriously, love this place. 

Riomaggiore

Ah, Cinque Terre.  Apparently it used to be a hidden treasure until it wasn't.  Some articles still call it a "hidden gem" on the Italian Riviera.  I'm not sure about that--  I can't even imagine what this place might be like without elbow to elbow crowds. Despite the mobs of tourists (of which I understand I am one), it's still one of the most magical places on earth....the waters are pure turquoise, and the colored homes make you feel like you are in a fairy land. 

I didn't hike the trails this time as I'd actually planned on spending a weekend in Cinque Terre later in the season.  Italy has a surprise (to me) national holiday on Aug 15 though so I took a quick day trip to spend the afternoon sitting by the water and reading a book.  Wow, even as I write that I can hardly believe I get to do things like that for awhile.   

Riomaggiore is the first town if you are coming from the south/east.  The sea was a little dramatic that day so there were no boats out, but it was a perfect "breeze" to cool down after what had been a hot, hot week under the Tuscan sun. Ha. 

I don't know anything about the history of Riomaggiore except that once upon a time, long ago, a great explorer named Rick Steves sailed the oceans blue and discovered it and Americans such as myself have been flocking to to it ever since.   It's also even more popular with the Italians themselves--they know what a national treasure they have here.

Yeah, this person just lives here on  this little cliff with beautiful swirling turquoise waters below him.     No big deal.

Riomaggiore has seafood galore--you can go schmance sit down, or pick up some seafood picked up in the morning catch and deep fried.  Have you ever had same day fresh caught calamari? Outstanding and yet I, the queen of taking random picture foods, neglected to capture its beauty on camera. 

I don't think seeing hanging laundry will ever lose its charm.  

So even with the stunning views and Italy all around me, I spent a good amount of time gushing over this one...obviously, since I felt it appropriate to photograph a stranger's dog.  This little Frenchie belonged to an American family that lives in Barcelona and  I really, really, really just wanted to sit there all day getting puppy kisses.  Love that smush face.

I guess I am missing my little peanut even more than I knew I would.