Daring Bakers March 2009, Lasagne of Emilia-Romagna

The March 2009 challenge is hosted by Mary of Beans and Caviar, Melinda of Melbourne Larder and Enza of Io Da Grande. They have chosen Lasagne of Emilia-Romagna from The Splendid Table by Lynne Rossetto Kasper as the challenge.

You know, you get your act together, whip out this month's Daring Baker's challenge during the month instead of on the posting date, and then something like a blizzard derails you by leaving you hundreds of miles away from your personal computer and your photos. I even noted the change in posting dates to the 27th. Even the best laid plans...

This month's challenge went savory again and was fun, fun fun. Homemade spinach pasta and béchamel in a pasta was scrumptious. I don't really like the more traditional lasagne so this challenge was right up my alley. When you make the noodles yourself you can make the noodles paper thin, control the contents and change the flavors up.

My version substituted half of the flour with whole wheat pastry flour, substituted goat cheese for the parm and of course, skipped all meat in the ragu. Technically I guess that makes it a tomato sauce instead of a ragu. Though the recipe looks really, really, really long, it really wasn't difficult, can be done in stages and was pretty fabulous. Who knew homemade spinach pasta was so easy and fabulous?

You may have noticed the new logos for the Daring Bakers. They've changed it the Daring Kitchen for the addition of a new challenge group to debut next month-I've already joined that group too. They've also created a fabulous new website to cover both groups.

#1 Spinach Egg Pasta (Pasta Verde)
Preparation: 45 minutes
Makes enough for 6 to 8 first course servings or 4 to 6 main course servings, equivalent to 1 pound (450g) dried boxed pasta.
2 jumbo eggs (2 ounces/60g or more)

10 ounces (300g) fresh spinach, rinsed dry, and finely chopped; or 6 ounces (170g) frozen chopped spinach, defrosted and squeezed dry

3&1/2 cups (14 ounces/400g) all purpose unbleached (plain) flour (organic stone ground preferred)
Working by Hand:
Equipment
A roomy work surface, 24 to 30 inches deep by 30 to 36 inches (60cm to 77cm deep by 60cm to 92cm). Any smooth surface will do, but marble cools dough slightly, making it less flexible than desired.
A pastry scraper and a small wooden spoon for blending the dough.
A wooden dowel-style rolling pin. In Italy, pasta makers use one about 35 inches long and 2 inches thick (89cm long and 5cm thick).
Plastic wrap to wrap the resting dough and to cover rolled-out pasta waiting to be filled. It protects the pasta from drying out too quickly.
A sharp chef’s knife for cutting pasta sheets.
Cloth-covered chair backs, broom handles, or specially designed pasta racks found in cookware shops for draping the pasta.

Mixing the dough:Mound the flour in the center of your work surface and make a well in the middle. Add the eggs and spinach. Use a wooden spoon to beat together the eggs and spinach. Then gradually start incorporating shallow scrapings of flour from the sides of the well into the liquid. As you work more and more flour into the liquid, the well’s sides may collapse. Use a pastry scraper to keep the liquids from running off and to incorporate the last bits of flour into the dough. Don’t worry if it looks like a hopelessly rough and messy lump.
Kneading:With the aid of the scraper to scoop up unruly pieces, start kneading the dough. Once it becomes a cohesive mass, use the scraper to remove any bits of hard flour on the work surface – these will make the dough lumpy. Knead the dough for about 3 minutes. Its consistency should be elastic and a little sticky. If it is too sticky to move easily, knead in a few more tablespoons of flour. Continue kneading about 10 minutes, or until the dough has become satiny, smooth, and very elastic. It will feel alive under your hands. Do not shortcut this step. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap, and let it relax at room temperature 30 minutes to 3 hours.

#2 Béchamel sauce

Preparation Time: 15 minutes
4 tablespoons (2 ounces/60g) unsalted butter

4 tablespoons (2 ounces/60g) all purpose unbleached (plain) flour, organic stone ground preferred

2&2/3 cups (approx 570ml) milk

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Freshly grated nutmeg to taste
Using a medium-sized saucepan, melt the butter over low to medium heat. Sift over the flour, whisk until smooth, and then stir (without stopping) for about 3 minutes. Whisk in the milk a little at a time and keep the mixture smooth. Bring to a slow simmer, and stir 3 to 4 minutes, or until the sauce thickens. Cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until the sauce thickens. Season with salt, pepper, and a hint of nutmeg.

#3 Country Style Ragu’ (Ragu alla Contadina)
Preparation Time: Ingredient Preparation Time 30 minutes and Cooking time 2 hours
Makes enough sauce for 1 recipe fresh pasta or 1 pound/450g dried pasta)
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (45 mL)

2 ounces/60g pancetta, finely chopped1 medium onion, minced

1 medium stalk celery with leaves, minced1 small carrot, minced

4 ounces/125g boneless veal shoulder or round

4 ounces/125g pork loin, trimmed of fat, or 4 ounces/125g mild Italian sausage (made without fennel)

8 ounces/250g beef skirt steak, hanging tender, or boneless chuck blade or chuck center cut (in order of preference)

1 ounce/30g thinly sliced Prosciutto di Parma

2/3 cup (5 ounces/160ml) dry red wine

1 &1/2 cups (12 ounces/375ml) chicken or beef stock (homemade if possible)

2 cups (16 ounces/500ml) milk3 canned plum tomatoes, drainedSalt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Working Ahead:The ragu can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and refrigerate. It also freezes well for up to 1 month. Skim the fat from the ragu’ before using it.
Browning the Ragu Base:Heat the olive oil in a 12 inch (30cm) skillet (frying pan) over medium-high heat. Have a large saucepan handy to use once browning is complete. Add the pancetta and minced vegetables and sauté, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, 10 minutes, or until the onions barely begin to color. Coarsely grind all the meats together, including the prosciutto, in a food processor or meat grinder. Stir into the pan and slowly brown over medium heat. First the meats will give off a liquid and turn dull grey but, as the liquid evaporates, browning will begin. Stir often, scooping under the meats with the wooden spatula. Protect the brown glaze forming on the bottom of the pan by turning the heat down. Cook 15 minutes, or until the meats are a deep brown. Turn the contents of the skillet into a strainer and shake out the fat. Turn them into the saucepan and set over medium heat.
Reducing and Simmering: Add the wine to the skillet, lowering the heat so the sauce bubbles quietly. Stir occasionally until the wine has reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Scrape up the brown glaze as the wine bubbles. Then pour the reduced wine into the saucepan and set the skillet aside.
Stir ½ cup stock into the saucepan and let it bubble slowly, 10 minutes, or until totally evaporated. Repeat with another ½ cup stock. Stir in the last 1/2 cup stock along with the milk. Adjust heat so the liquid bubbles very slowly. Partially cover the pot, and cook 1 hour. Stir frequently to check for sticking.
Add the tomatoes, crushing them as they go into the pot. Cook uncovered, at a very slow bubble for another 45 minutes, or until the sauce resembles a thick, meaty stew. Season with salt and pepper.

Lasagne of Emilia-Romagna (Lasagne Verdi al Forno)(Serves 8 to 10 as a first course, 6 to 8 as a main dish)
Preparation Time: 15 minutes to assemble and 40 minutes cooking time
10 quarts (9 litres) salted water

1 recipe Spinach Pasta cut for lasagna

1 recipe Bechamel Sauce

1 recipe Ragu (recipe follows)

1 cup (4 ounces/125g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
MethodWorking Ahead:The ragu and the béchamel sauce can be made up to three days ahead. The ragu can also be frozen for up to one month. The pasta can be rolled out, cut and dried up to 24 hours before cooking. The assembled lasagne can wait at room temperature (20 degrees Celsius/68 degrees Fahrenheit) about 1 hour before baking. Do not refrigerate it before baking, as the topping of béchamel and cheese will overcook by the time the center is hot.
Assembling the Ingredients:Have all the sauces, rewarmed gently over a medium heat, and the pasta at hand. Have a large perforated skimmer and a large bowl of cold water next to the stove. Spread a double thickness of paper towels over a large counter space. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit (180 degrees Celsius). Oil or butter a 3 quart (approx 3 litre) shallow baking dish.
Cooking the Pasta:Bring the salted water to a boil. Drop about four pieces of pasta in the water at a time. Cook about 2 minutes. If you are using dried pasta, cook about 4 minutes, taste, and cook longer if necessary. The pasta will continue cooking during baking, so make sure it is only barely tender. Lift the lasagne from the water with a skimmer, drain, and then slip into the bowl of cold water to stop cooking. When cool, lift out and dry on the paper towels. Repeat until all the pasta is cooked.
Assembling the Lasagne: Spread a thin layer of béchamel over the bottom of the baking dish. Arrange a layer of about four overlapping sheets of pasta over the béchamel. Spread a thin layer of béchamel (about 3 or 4 spoonfuls) over the pasta, and then an equally thin layer of the ragu. Sprinkle with about 1&1/2 tablespoons of the béchamel and about 1/3 cup of the cheese. Repeat the layers until all ingredients are used, finishing with béchamel sauce and topping with a generous dusting of cheese.
Baking and Serving the Lasagne:Cover the baking dish lightly with foil, taking care not to let it touch the top of the lasagne. Bake 40 minutes, or until almost heated through. Remove the foil and bake another 10 minutes, or until hot in the center (test by inserting a knife – if it comes out very warm, the dish is ready). Take care not to brown the cheese topping. It should be melted, creamy looking and barely tinged with a little gold. Turn off the oven, leave the door ajar and let the lasagne rest for about 10 minutes. Then serve. This is not a solid lasagne, but a moist one that slips a bit when it is cut and served.

Homemade Pasta

Sometimes it's about the food and sometimes it's about the process. Making homemade pasta is to me, all about the process. Truth be told, after I whipped up this batch of pasta, photographed it and tasted it, I packed it away for the office this week and poured a bowl of Cheerios. It's inexplicable except to say that making pasta, is just plain fun and worth the effort. Even if there is no desire to eat it, there is something very retro Playdoh Fun Factory about the process. Throw in a zillion flavor opportunities and it's the perfect relaxing Sunday afternoon activity.

Homemade Lemon Pepper Pasta

2 c. flour

1 tbsp. olive oil

2 eggs

1/2 tsp. salt

1 tsp freshly ground black pepper

Zest of half a lemon

1. Pour flour onto a large bread board and form into a mound with a well in the center.

2. Beat eggs, oil, salt, pepper and zest together and pour into well.

3. Mix with fork, blending some amounts of the surrounding flour while mixing. Slowly incorporate more flour from the sides until a smooth ball is formed.

4. Knead for additional 8-10 mins. Roll dough into a ball and cover with plastic wrap.

5. Let dough rest for 20 minutes. Cut into manageable portions.

6. Flatten each piece and run through thickest setting on pasta machine.

7. Run dough through machine 2-3 times at each setting until dough is thin enough for the specific use. At this point, pasta may be cooked immediately, frozen or dried on a rack.
8. Cook until tender, usually 3-5 minutes.

Like She Never Left

I actually get quite a few questions about my friend Hannah from people who have never met her, questions all relating to her blog and her world travels. While I didn't always have answers for all the questions I was asked, I do have the answer to "What's she going to do when she comes back?" The answer to that oft asked question is, spend a few days at home in San Deigo, throw an air mattress in the back of a Suburban and travel the US of course. Crazy girl. I did love this plan as it meant I was able to spend Saturday with my dear friend and meet the man who proposed to her on the ocean floor. It was wonderful to meet Nico and spend an evening with Hannah giggling like schoolgirls--we always pick up like we haven't spent years between visits. I've also been told the blog isn't finished quite yet, Kansas City, Rapid City, Motown Philly...she's off again.

Cookbook #43 Salmon

New Year's day seems a rather appropriate time to get back on track on my endeavor to cook through all my cookbooks in one year. I'm a bit behind right now, but with a bit of schedule correction, perhaps I'll get it done. Or not. But it's quite fun to give it a try.

I adore salmon and the cookbook Salmon by Diane Morgan is one of my favorites. I turn to it quite often since fish seems to be one of those ingredients I have difficulty cooking without a recipe. As the title implies, this cookbook is salmon, salmon and more salmon. It's all about salmon pasta, chowders, risottos, spring rolls, sandwiches, potpie and salad. I went the salad route today: spinach salad with blackened salmon, oranges and red onion. Not a tough recipe, but fabulous. I could wax poetic about both spinach salad and blackened salmon for hours. Put them together and yahoo! The only change I made was to add berries. Some are of the veggies only and ranch dressing school of salads; I definitely lean more towards the fruit and vinaigrette school.

Spinach Salad with Blackened Salmon, Oranges & Red Onion

adapted from Salmon by Diane Morgan

2 salmon fillets

1 tbsp blackening spice (store bought or homemade)2 tbsp salt, 1 tbsp sugar, 1 tbsp black pepper, 1 tbsp cayenne, 2 tbsp paprika, and 1 tbsp powdered sumac)

salad:

4 c clean fresh baby spinach

1/2 c. paper thin sliced red onion

1 orange, peeled and cut into segments

1 cup berries

Add all ingredients to a large bowl and toss

Blackening spice:
2 tbsp salt
1 tbsp sugar
1.5 tbsp ground black pepper
1 tbsp paprika
2 tbsps cayenne
1 tbsp garlic powder
1 tbsp finely crushed dried basil

dressing:

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

2 tsp balsalmic vinegar

1/2 teaspoon dijon

pinch of sugar, salt and black pepper

1. Throw blackening spice ingredients together in a bowl and mix well.  Coat both sides of the salmon fillets with the blackening spice (about 1-2 tbsp) and set aside for 10 mins.  Store remaining spices in airtight jar.

2. Add all dressing ingredients to a jar and shake vigorously

3. Heat skillet over med high heat with a splash of extra virgin olive oil. Place salmon fillets in pan and cook undisturbed until it blackens--about 2-3 mins. Turn and cook 3 mins longer.

4. Set aside and let salmon rest for 10 mins.

5. Dress salad with dressing and toss well. Plate and top with blackened salmon

The World's Easiest Dessert...

...is also one of the best. I adore crème brûlée, or at least the first few bites. Those first few creamy bites with the crunchy carmelized sugar are heaven. Unfortunately for me, that's where my personal love affair ends; the richness and the sugar become nauseating at that point. How I envy those who can finish off an entire dish of creme brulee.

Imagine my excitement upon seeing crème brûlée being served in tiny little espresso cups at a restuarant. Genius. And what was most exciting to me about trying this serving method, was the ability to test different flavors, flavors that were all pulled directly from the liquour cabinet. I used my absolute favorite crème brûlée recipe from Barefoot Contessa.

While crème brûlée is the easiest dessert ever, it does require minimal attention. Otherwise you end up with something like this...

After a quick correction, a stir and some pouring, it was ready for the oven. Each of the espresso cups received a teaspoon of liqueur prior to the creme mixture being poured in.

The best part...

While it was fun to do a side-by-side taste test, I really should have just done one at a time. One taste from each was my limit, but that one bite was enough to determine that Cointreau was the winner--by far. The Godiva was my least favorite, not surprising since I don't like white chocolate. That bottle of Godive is from an unfortunate experiment with peppermint white chocolate martinis a few New Year's ago. It seems that this bottle is destined to stay with me forever.

Regular sized crème brûlée does however have the distinct advantage of having a much larger surface area. Brûléed sugar to crème ratio is very important.

Crème Brûlée
From Ina Garten's Barefoot in Paris

1 extra-large egg
4 extra-large egg yolks
1/2 cup sugar, plus 1 tablespoon for each serving
3 cups heavy cream
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 tablespoon liqueur

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees F.
1. the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the egg, egg yolks, and 1/2 cup of the sugar together on low speed until just combined.

2. Meanwhile, scald the cream in a small saucepan until it's very hot to the touch but not boiled. 3. With the mixer on low speed, slowly add the cream to the eggs. Add the vanilla and orange liqueur.

4. Strain into a pyrex and pour into 6 to 8-ounce ramekins until almost full.
4. Place the ramekins in a baking pan and carefully pour boiling water into the pan to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins.

5. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until the custards are set when gently shaken. Remove the custards from the water bath, cool to room temperature, and refrigerate until firm.
6. To serve, spread 1 tablespoon of sugar evenly on the top of each ramekin and heat with a kitchen blowtorch until the sugar carmelizes evenly. Allow to sit at room temperature for a minute until the caramelized sugar hardens.

Cookbook # 49 Williams-Sonoma Soups & Stews

Williams-Sonoma is like the mothership to me. Well, actually Crate and Barrel is because I can actually afford to shop in Crate and Barrel. Williams-Sonoma, not so much, but it sure is fun to walk through. Sometimes, there's something in the cookbook section that grabs me and I indulge in a bit of a treat..like this cookbook dedicated to soup and stew. Soup and stew is my go-to winter comfort food. I don't usually associate soup with summer or spring, save one exception: asparagus soup. With the asparagus in the stores looking so very tempting this time of the year, choosing a recipe from this cookbook was tres facile.

I have a Cream of Asparagus Soup recipe that I pull out every spring. What's different about William's Sonoma's recipe however is that though it is called "Cream of Asparagus," there is no cream to found in the soup--just a dallop of crème fraîche for serving (which I actually omitted). There was also a potato thrown in. Interesting...

The recipe called for cooking all of the ingredients for 15 mins, but the photo of the soup was also a brownish yellow, actually, just like asparagus that had been cooked for 15 mins would look. I added the asparagus after the 15 mins and cooked for an additional 5-7 mins.

Stick blender is my greatest soup friend.

Scrumptious, though I think it will be an addition to my recipe collection rather than a replacement. The potato made it heartier than my other asparagus soup recipe, but the tradeoff was that some of the asparagus flavor is somewhat obscured. Still absolutely fabulous.

Cream of Asparagus Soup

Adapted from Williams-Sonoma Soups & Stews

2 tbsp olive oil

2 leeks, white and green parts only, cleaned and finely chopped

1 lb aspargus cut into 2-inch pieces. (Reserve tips)

1 russet potato peeled and cut into 2 inch chunks

4 cups (2 cans) chicken broth

Salt and pepper

crème fraîche

1. In a soup pot over medium heat, heat the olive oil. Add leeks and saute until softened, about 5 minutes.

2. Add the potato and saute until nicely coated and beginning to soften, about 3 mins longer.

3. Add broth and cook until potatoes are tender, about 15 mins.

4. Add asparagus and cook about 5-7 minutes longer.

5. While soup is cooking, bring a small saucepan of water to boil. Add reserved asparagus tips and boil until crisp-tender and still bright green, about 3 minutes.

6. When soup pot of asparagus and potatoes are tender, remove from heat. Using a stick or regular blender, puree the soutp until smooth. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed.

7. Serve with dallop of crème fraîche and some reserved asparagus tips. ( I opted for homemade croutons instead).

Lightening Up the Sesame Chicken.

I had a craving for Sesame Chicken that would just not go away--the kind of craving that drives one to pickup the takeout menu many, many times while deliberating. What I wasn't craving though was that full, sick tummy fried food feeling. After a couple of hours of going back and forth, I finally remembered that my mom makes a pretty fabulous sesame chicken and it started me wondering on what sesame chicken would taste like without the fried chicken.

I sliced two large chicken breasts and stir-fried them in just a splash of olive oil. When the chicken was completely cooked, I added two cups of snap peas and one cup of shredded carrots, just because I could. Not authentic I know, but that's the beauty of cooking...you get to throw in whatever you want. I stir-fried the veggies for just another minute, until they were warmed through.

I tossed in the homemade Sesame Chicken sauce, and served over rice. The verdict? It was of course, missing the fabulous crunchy fried chicken part, but still managed to respectfully acknowledge its Sesame Chicken roots. And while not as healthy as a basic stir-fry (quite a bit of sugar), it satisfied a craving. Really, sometimes I just have to do that, or else I'd be putting in an order for half of Hoongs Palace's menu on my way home from work tomorrow.

Sesame Chicken Sauce
Makes enough for 4-6 servings

1/4 c. water

3 tbsp cornstarch

1/3 c sugar in the raw

1/2 cup chicken broth

1/3 c. vinegar

2 tsp dark soy sauce

2 tsp chili paste

1 clove garlic, minced

3 tbsp toasted sesame seeds

1. Combine water and cornstarch and set aside.

2. Heat sugar, broth, vinegar, soy sauce, chili paste, and garlic and bring to boiling.

3. Whisk in cornstarch and water mixture. Cook and stir until thickened.

4. Combine sauce with chicken and sprinkle toasted sesame seeds on top.

Restaurant Week in Review

Restaurant Week 2009 has come and gone and I saw a bit of action. Three reservations in one week...I did my share for the cause of culinary experimentation.

Restaurant one was Cru in Larimer Square. I'm a bit torn on this one because while the food I had (fontina crostini with tomato soup and salmon with red curry) was delicious, the experience was not the best. I would think Restaurant Week would be about putting your best foot forward to showcase your restaurant and gain repeat diners. Instead I'm guessing Cru was overbooked and going for the profit factor because we were set up on a folding card table in a crowded corner and served creme brulee that was really just chocolate custard. We were told after being served the creme brulee that they couldn't brulee because they had to make the brulee in these small plastic cups, that apparently melted when introduced to a torch. Such is mass produced food created solely to accomodate too many people.

Restaurant number two was fabulous, but I've never, ever met a chicken piccata I didn't like. Cafe Colore is downtown in Writer's Square and had a great rustic italian menu. Throw in a caprese salad, some tirimisu and good friends and there were no complaints from this girl.

And the final restaurant was Juicy Lucy's in Cherry Creek North--which I infinitely prefer over downtown. Now that I no longer work down there, I rarely have any desire to head down there unless required. On my menu was grilled artichokes, seared scallops and gratin potatoes. With a chocolate mousse dessert, it was the perfect end to Restaurant Week.